On Elevating a Dish

ingredients for this recipe

I think it is safe to assume that everyone has at least one guilty pleasure food that comes from a can or box. When I grew up, many families used to fully subsist on toaster strudels and kraft mac and cheese in favor of time and Convenience. For me, it was Spaghettio’s and hamburger helper. Once of my clients has mentioned that his Mom had a “special occasion” chili casserole that that used Velveeta as a base and Fritos as a topping. When you think about it, these processed foods are pretty awful, and now I can’t believe that I ate so much instant Ramen as a growing child in need of nutrients. Unfortunately, even with this retrospective knowledge, I still can’t help but crave some of my childhood favorites every now and then.

This past weekend proves case and point. After a long day catering a very fun and intimate dinner party, Rian and I craved some easy comfort. Seeking the only open grocery store at midnight, we loaded up on Annie’s mac and cheese, Chicken flavored Ramen, and Cinnamon toast crunch. While the cereal definitely lived up to its expectations, we were saddened to find that the mac and cheese tasted like cardboard and the ramen tasted like flavored salt. Now that we know better as experienced food snobs, we could recognize how inferior these powdered, dehydrated and condensed versions of food really are in comparison to the real deal.

This was a moment when I realized how being a chef has changed my life and habits. Without even talking about it, Rian and I set about doing whatever we could to improve upon the flavor of each dish and cajole them into giving us the flavor experience we remembered from childhood. The mac and cheese received grated gruyere, chili flakes and garlic while the ramen transformed into a mediocre resemblance of pho with cilantro, mint, basil, scallions and lime juice.

cheese before baking

If only there were a way that we could still enjoy our childhood favorite foods but in a less guilty manner. I finally realized that we can take our favorite aspects of each meal we used to love and then transform them into a more wholesome version. One might sacrifice some extra time but benefit from better ingredients, flavor, texture and nutrition. For example, why not transform the above mentioned chili casserole by using fresh grated fontina and cheddar cheeses, a combination of home cooked beans, and a homemade charred corn crumble topping.

Green Beans with cream and spices

On the topic of casseroles, I find myself to be somewhat of an expert. Hailing from Minnesota, we masters of the slow cooker and “hot dish” meals. My absolute favorite was the classic green bean casserole, which included Campbell’s condensed mushroom soup and a can of crispy fried onions. In light of the coming holidays and my recent revelations, I have decided to experiment with my theory on elevating a classic by creating a What We Eat version of my favorite casserole using only fresh ingredients.

Green Bean and mushroom casserole

 

GREEN BEAN AND MUSHROOM CASSEROLE

Ingredients
2 lbs green beans, trimmed
8 ounces mixed mushrooms of choice
6 shallots (canola oil to pan-fry)
5 cloves garlic
1 onion
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream

¼ cup grated parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons flour

2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon nutmeg

pepper to taste

Method:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Thinly shave the onion and and garlic. Caramelize the onion in a well oiled skillet. When the onion has achieved some color, add the mushrooms and cook until they have reduced and become slightly caramelized. Add the garlic and stir until aromatic. Add the flour, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper and nutmeg and stir until aromatic.

Slowly pour the chicken stock and heavy cream into the skillet while stirring to combine. Toss the green beans into the skillet and stir all ingredients until just mixed. Top with an even layer of grated parmesan and bake uncovered for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour a one-inch layer of canola oil into another skillet and heat on high heat. Shave the shallots very thinly. Working in small batches, fry the shallots until crisp and lightly browned. Transfer to a paper towel lined plate to dry. Season with salt.

When the Casserole is bubbling and cooked through, remove from oven to let sit for ten minutes. Top with Crispy shallots to serve.

 

Serves 6

What’s the Deal with Full Fat Dairy?

When I worked as a primary care dietitian, not a day passed without me recommending the substitution of low-fat or nonfat dairy products for their full-fat counterparts. Whether I was seeing someone with heart disease or high cholesterol, obesity or diabetes, choosing low-fat/nonfat dairy was a no-brainer. However, a growing body of evidence suggests this recommendation may be at best ineffective, and at worst counterproductive.

There were two main reasons the medical field touted the superiority of low-fat dairy for so long:

  • Saturated fat has long been associated with high cholesterol and heart disease. Full fat dairy is higher in saturated fat than low-fat/nonfat dairy.
  • Low calorie diets are associated with healthy weight management. Full fat dairy is higher in calories than low-fat/nonfat dairy.

What’s changed? The short answer is nutrition science itself. Until recently, nutrition science has focused on isolated nutrients instead of actual foods.

In the case of saturated fat and heart disease, science looked at the effect of saturated fat overall. It did not distinguish whether it came from animal fat (think the fatty gristle on a t-bone steak), dairy fat (think whole milk) or vegetable fat (think coconut oil). All foods have unique fatty acid profiles, each of which may have different metabolic effects. Even a food group’s subsets, like milk, yogurt, cheese and butter, which all fall under the dairy umbrella, have different profiles and different effects. When the full fat dairy group is teased out from the other saturated fat sources, it does not appear to be significantly related to risk of heart disease.

In the case of calories and weight control, science has long held that a calorie, is a calorie, is a calorie. Fat has more calories per gram than protein and carbohydrates (9 calories per gram versus 4 calories per gram), so therefore reducing calories by choosing lower fat alternatives was thought to aid in weight management. However, new research indicates that full fat dairy is associated with improved weight control. While the reason isn’t fully understood, one hypothesis is that full fat dairy is more filling than low-fat/non fat dairy alternatives, so those who consume the latter compensate by eating more calories (most often from refined carbohydrates) later on.

So, what’s a dairy eater to do? Here are my recommendations:

  • Enjoy full fat versions of the dairy you currently consume if you’d like. Three servings of dairy is great. That could be one cup whole Greek yogurt for breakfast, a small whole milk cappuccino midmorning and an ounce or two of cheese crumbled atop a salad for dinner.
  • Fermented plain full fat dairy like yogurt and kefir seems to be the most beneficial of all full fat dairy products, so extra points for regularly including these foods in your diet.
  • Limit low-fat/nonfat and full fat dairy with added sugars or sugar substitutes.
  • The bulk of your diet should be vegetables and fruit (at least half), whole grains, nuts and seeds, legumes and other lean proteins like fish and eggs. These foods are indisputably good for you.

One final note. Nutrition science is so young. The direction of research today indicates that full fat dairy isn’t the no-no we once thought it was but that doesn’t mean we should accept this as indisputable fact for life. Nutrition science will continue to evolve so it’s important to be open to new developments but at the same time be skeptical about where your information is coming from. As Dr. David Katz, Director of Yale University’s Yale-Griffin Prevention Research Center, says:

“It is the least substantiated, most uninformed opinions about how to eat that will come at you with the greatest conviction. That’s your first clue that something is awry, because true expertise always allows for doubt.”

xo Laura

 

Pumpkin Pie Spice and Everything Nice!

There are a lot of things I love about the fall. Football, colorful crunchy leaves, thick socks and most of all – the abundance of pumpkin EVERYTHING. As I was going through Yotam Ottolenghi’s new cook book, “Sweet”, I stumbled upon a delish spice cake recipe that uses pumpkin pie spice! So in the spirit of Halloween, I had to test it.

Growing up, my mom would make the most delicious spice cakes every year (she’s an amazing baker and constantly gets asked to make her famous rum cakes, spice cakes and chocolate rolls). So, as I try to channel my mom and Ottolenghi, here is what I came up with! Of course I had to give it a flare, so I added toasted hazelnuts, fresh sage and dates to the batter. And let me tell you, the kitchen smelled AMAZING.

Recipe

¾ cup butter, at room temperature

¾ packed cup dark brown sugar

¾ packed cup light brown sugar

finely grated zest of 1 large orange

3 large eggs

½ cup sour cream

1 tbsp vanilla extract

1 heaping tsp pumpkin pie spice (YUM)

1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour

¾ tsp salt

½ tsp baking soda

1 tsp apple cider vin

 

Rian’s Mix In’s (add anything you like! )

2 tbsp chopped fresh sage

¼ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts

½ cup sliced dates

1 tsp flour

 

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 375 Degrees. Grease a standard 9×5 loaf pan and line with parchment paper, then set aside.
  2. Place the butter, sugars and orange zest in a bowl and beat until lightened and smooth.

3. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, sour cream and vanilla extract until smooth

4. In another separate bowl (lots of bowls!), sift the flour, pumpkin pie spice and salt together.

5. In alternate batches, slowly mix the egg mixture and flour mixture in with the butter and sugars. When almost combined, stir the baking soda and vinegar in a small bowl until it fizzes and add to the mixture.

6. In my version of the recipe, I added in toasted hazelnuts, dates and chopped sage to the batter! Stir the additional ingredients with a pinch of flour. This will ensure that they won’t sink to the bottom of the cake. Mix to combine.

7. Scrape the mixture into the prepared loaf pan and bake for 50-55 minutes.

8. Allow the cake to cool and serve with a glass of wine or a hot coffee (I prefer the wine). I smothered mine with homemade butternut squash and cream cheese icing, but the cake itself can stand alone. Enjoy! And have the happiest Halloween!!

xoxo,

Rian

 

 

How to Love Quinoa

I haven’t always loved quinoa. Too many dishes I’ve tried featuring it are a little mushy, a little bland, just generally not worth eating. Why does everyone else go crazy for it? The only answer, I’ve deduced, is quinoa’s strong health halo. It’s as if people don’t necessarily care if it tastes good because they’re more concentrated on the fact it’s good for them.

To each his own but I’m not one of those people. There is not a food in the world I would eat just because its healthy. Why when there are so many delicious alternatives? However, after being forced to get to know the grain (or, to be more accurate, the seed) by city clients, Copper Beech customers, friends, basically the rest of the world, I’m a convert.


My conversion was gradual. It began by applying a little common culinary sense and culminated soon after I hired Charlotte.

Cooking directions on most boxes of quinoa reads as follows: “Place 1 cup (whatever brand) quinoa and 2 cups water in a 1 ½ quart saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover and cook until all water is absorbed, about 15 minutes.” These instructions yields wet, overcooked quinoa, with zero texture and little flavor. If the dishes I’ve tried while dining out are any indication, the majority of people follow these instructions.

If I wanted it to be less wet, why not add less water to begin with? Overtime I reduced my quinoa:water ratio to 1:1.5 and obviously, obviously, added a big pinch of salt. (Why wouldn’t boxed directions mention that?!)

I found I liked it even more and had more control if I left the top off the pot entirely while the quinoa simmered away. I could easily adjust the heat to speed things up or slow things down. If necessary, I could drain the quinoa as soon as I saw the germ ring along the outside of the grain or add a few tablespoons of water if it all evaporated before the quinoa was ready. To ensure the quinoa remained as fluffable (that’s not a word, but it should be) as possible, I’d then place a clean kitchen towel over the saucepot and top it with a lid. This allowed the quinoa to steam for a few minutes while the towel absorbed excess liquid. The resulting quinoa was fluffy and flavorful, if not a little clumpy.

That’s when Charlotte sealed the deal. While “training” her during her first week with What We Eat back in January, I assigned her the task of a quinoa salad. I watched with one eye as she first rinsed the quinoa, then added it to a saucepan. Of course, I jumped in to explain how “we cook quinoa” (I’m so obnoxious) explaining to her that rinsing it first was unnecessary. Being the sweet person she is, she accepted this without question and continued as instructed.

But guess what? Char’s rinsed quinoa prepared with our previously adaptions was perfect. Fluffy, flavorful, with just the right amount of pop and not at all clumpy. Not above admitting my faults, I quickly accepted this initial rinse and have never looked back.

Now I happily prepare countless quinoa dishes without feeling like my clients (or I) are trading pleasure for health. So, if like me you’ve been anti-quinoa, try this method and experiment with a few of our favorite add-in variations below. Who knows? Maybe you can learn to love quinoa too.

(It turns out there are a host of reasons why boxed directions aren’t necessary the best directions. This is a must-read article.)

How What We Eat Cooks Quinoa

Scale as necessary and assume 1 cup quinoa feeds about 2-4 people.

Ingredients

1 cup quinoa

1.5 cups water

Pinch of salt

First, rinse quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer, moving the grains around a little bit with your hands to make sure you are removing any excess starch. Next, transfer quinoa to a pot so it comes up to no less than 1.5 inches in depth and no more than say 3.5 inches. The latter will only happen if you are making a large batch. If you use a pot that’s too big, the water will evaporate before the quinoa has time to cook. If you use a pot that’s too small, the quinoa at the bottom will overcook by the time the quinoa at the top sprouts.

Next, add in water so that its a 1:1.5 ratio of quinoa to water and a generous pinch of salt (more with more quinoa). Put on the stovetop over high heat and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer. No need to stir it at all during this entire process. Let the quinoa do its thing for about 5 minutes then after that, begin to watch it more closely. Can you see the quinoa begin to “sprout” little curly cues? If so and there is a good amount of water left, turn up the heat so it evaporates more quickly. Does the quinoa still look exactly the same as when you started it while a good amount of water has already evaporated? Turn down the heat to slow things down. Ideally, the water will be absorbed/evaporated at the exact time the quinoa is done. If there is water left but the majority of curly cues are showing, drain it in the fine mesh strainer and return it to the pot. If it needs more time, water, add water by the tablespoon full until its done. It’s generally done anywhere between 10-18 minutes (longer times are more common with black and red quinoa).

When you are nearly happy with what you see–the quinoa will be showing a good amount of curly cues but not look water logged and all water is evaporated–place a clean kitchen cloth over the pot and top it with the pot top. Again, do not stir it. Allow to rest and steam for 5 minutes. After that, remove the top and cloth and fluff gently with a fork. It’s ready!

Quinoa Add-ins

  • Pictured above: Lemon zest/juice, olive oil, crumbled feta, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, red onion or scallions, roasted eggplant, toasted walnuts and mint
  • Lemon juice/zest, olive oil, sliced apples, dried cranberries, toasted almonds or hazelnuts, mint
  • Lemon juice/zest, roasted winter squash, dates, toasted almonds, crumbled goat cheese, scallions, mint
  • Lime zest/juice, olive oil, corn, cherry, crumbled feta, toasted pepitas, scallions, cilantro
  • Lemon juice/zest, olive oil, roasted mushrooms, toasted hazelnuts, shaved parmesan, basil and/or parsley
  • Orange juice/zest, white wine vinegar, olive oil, steamed beets, shallots, crumbled goat cheese, toasted almonds or hazelnuts, mint
  • Lemon juice/zest, dijon mustard, olive oil, blanched peas/sugar snaps/green beans, shallots, basil, toasted hazelnuts
  • Sky is seriously the limit here guys. Come up with your own combination using what’s available and share your creations with us here!

 

Finding Inspiration for the Kitchen

A meal from LA’s Gjusta

Every week we come up with unique menus for our entire client roster. With two art studios and over ten families, each of which enjoy anywhere from two to five meals prepared by us weekly, that’s a lot of unique dishes to dream up.

So, we’re constantly on the lookout for inspiration. I thought I’d share a few favorite places to find it:

  • Travel
    • Like the rest of the What We Eat gals, I plan entire vacations around food. I’ve traveled to Copenhagen for Noma, Napa for French Laundry and (multiple times) to LA for Gjusta and Gjelina. I’m just as excited by less formal places where I get to see how locals more routinely dine. Finally, I drag my husband to every farmer’s market I can find to taste and learn about new ingredients. I take copious notes on my iphone “Notes” app about all of it.
A farmers market in Turin, Italy
Outside Copenhagen’s Noma
  • Eating out
    • Every opportunity to dine out is an opportunity for inspiration. I order as much as I and my dining partners can stomach, take notes on flavor combinations that excite me and take pictures for plating ideas. While I probably go a little overboard in this department, I suggest ordering something a little outside of your comfort zone. Try to discern the ingredients used and how they might have gone about making it. Obviously this is hard for something like pâté, but I’ve recreated many a restaurant salad, etc. with great success. And because you can tweak things to your preferences at home, you might just like your version even more. I’m also a big collector of restaurant menus. Even though they usually just have a few ingredients listed, if I take notes on them they’re like shorthand recipes.
Documenting a creative dish at Noma

Next time you feel like you’re in a rut, eat out, peruse the internet, or hey, take a vacation! Keep a little notebook handy to jot down dishes, ingredients and recipes that excite you so you have a standing list to refer back to later on.

Happy cooking!

With love, Laura

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